I corrected my post , I meant to say all my fly lines were coated with Zipcast . Sorry for the confusion. :oops:
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the oil from a duck`s back wether is it collected and sold is another problem so if you duck hunt collect your own Preen oil. Heck maybe your local hardware store carries it. Dead ducks don`t need it anymore that`s what keeps CDC floating so well
jcntheriver
P.S. I love flybinder `s responce
"Amadou fly frying patches, for $23.40"
I just love the picture..."How did you get your flies so dry...and toasted?" :p
mcsteff; First.........be sure to set the heat range on the patch to "medium low", then just before the fly begins to brown nicely, flip it over ONLY ONCE and turn the heat up to "FULL", for 9 seconds. Anymore than that and you'll over brown the tail fibers.
While slightly off topic, if any of you out there use plain old yarn as strike indicators; treating the yarn ahead of time with Water Shed, Camp Dry, or any other waterproofing stuff makes the indicator float 100 times better.
In the November 2007 issue of Fly Fishing and Fly Tying (an English mag which is very, very good), there was a study of the best ways to dry a fly. The articles conclusion was that powders made from hygroscopic substance (like Shimzake Dry Shake) was the best possible option.
This was followed by Samadou, Amadou, drying beads, and felt.
After finishing a dry fly, I put some WaterShed on it and leave it out over night. Once, on a river, if I get lucky enough to actually catch something, I'll pop the fly into the 'Shake.