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Getting Started
I have to agree with Kathy, and might add one thing about rod building, and it really applies to all disciplines, graphite, glass, boo.
Building a fly rod is an expression of what you feel and like to see in hardware and aesthetics, as well as how the rod handles and it's performance. We all have our preferences and it is always nice when what one likes is well liked by others, but that is not always the case. What really matters is the personal satisfaction that one gets out of their work. A good example is that I personally like the appearance of the genuine cigar grip and the torpedo style grip, and I use that style a lot in rods that I build for myself. If I were to give advice to a new rod builder, it would be to make yourself happy with what you want to see in a rod that you build for yourself, and when you build one for someone else, build what they want and you will enjoy it just as much as what you do for yourself when you see the gleam in their eyes.
I still envy PhotoJoe for what he is doing with the apprenticeship in building bamboo. That would be the ultimate way to go as it goes one giant step beyond a class. Just imagine what an experience it would be to do that!!
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I have a set of Bellinger forms that have never been used. I bought them from Golden Witch, and I have not had enough time to use them. If anyone would like to see photos or make an offer please send me your email, and I will get in touch with you. Thanks for your help guys and have a nice day. If I do not have anyone interested in them in a week or so I am going to list them on Ebay.
thanks,
Brad
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I'm a month or so in front of you on this endeavor. I found a Stanley 9 1/4 (just like a 9 1/2, without the adjustable throat--which isn't strictly necessary), almost unused, at a local antique store. The older planes were made to a higher standard of fit and materials than modern ones (except for pricey models like the Lie-Nielson and Veritas), and the blades on the old ones were made of better steel, which could save you the cost of a Hock blade (I got one anyway). I started with an Anant (Stanley copy) and, after putting a lot of time into tuning it (flattening the sole and contact surfaces) found that it just wouldn't keep the blade from slipping side to side, and it was very difficult to adjust to a fine, consistent cut. I made a hot air oven with Home Depot vent duct and plumbing parts and a WalMart heat gun for less than $100. It works much better than some of the pricey designs. You can bind by hand, although a string tensioner and some rod supports mounted on your workbench will make it easier. I lucked into a vintage Herter's binder and form, but would have otherwise rigged a binder and gotten an adjustable form from J.D. Wagner, Bellinger, or bamboorodsmith.com (by far the least expensive, because he's just starting out in the business). Wipe on finishes and the right glue choices will limit the amount of other drying devices and dip tubes, etc, without reducing the quality of your rods. You'll need a good measuring device, like a micrometer or dial caliper capable of .001 increments. The first thing you need, even if you have a teacher, is a good manual, like the Cattanach book, which you can get used (often in new condition) from an online bookseller. That will get the job done, although there are some other things, like a drill press, lathe, and a dedicated workshop that would make the job easier and more enjoyable. I figure after I turn out a rod or two, I can get the "CFO" to approve a little bigger investment in my hobby.
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