Simms recommends Revivex to renew the DWR on their waders. I already have some Nikwax TX-Direct. Does it work as well as the Revivex? Does Simms sell a special version of Revivex, or is it the same as the regular stuff?
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Simms recommends Revivex to renew the DWR on their waders. I already have some Nikwax TX-Direct. Does it work as well as the Revivex? Does Simms sell a special version of Revivex, or is it the same as the regular stuff?
Sorry but I have no experience with TX-Direct but I have used Revivex many times.
BTW - Revivex is Revivex, Simms doesn't have a special formula. The reason they recommend it is because W.L. Gore recommends it.
I have used and had good luck with the Revivex on my Simms Gore Tex, but let me give you one friendly warning if you go that route. Unless they've changed the instructions on the bottle in recent years, the Revivex instructions will tell you to toss the garment in the dryer on low heat when you're done. DON'T follow those instructions - Simms distinctly tells you NOT to put the waders in the dryer, but rather to use a blow dryer to dry them and set the Revivex. There's a great video on the Simms site that shows the procedure. I didn't realize the discrepancy in instructions until after I had dried my waders in the dryer. Unfortunately, after many years, the only thing that I've had any problems with is the seam tape curling up on the boot feet, which is exactly why they warn you not to put them in the dryer!
I use Nikwax TX-Direct spray on all my waders and outerware with excellent results. I put waders and coats in the dryer on LOW permanent press without any problem. I wash with non scented POWDER not liquid detergent/soap before using the DWR (Durable Water Repellent) coating.
ReviveX is distributed by Gore. It has nothing to do with Simm's, other than they use Gore-Tex and not their own proprietary membrane. TX Direct is Nixwax. They both work on Gore-Tex but realize that they do not work as well as the original Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finish you had when the article of clothing was new. So in order to keep the water beading up on the outside you'll need to repeat the application on a fairly regular basis. TECTRON is getting better reviews lately.
You need to read and follow the instructions to the letter on any of those products. DWR replacement doesn't work unless the article is CLEAN. Do not use detergents with surfactant (like Tide). This will inhibit the DWR from penetrating the fabric and it's almost impossible to reverse the damage. If you wash the article...use something like Sport Wash (I use it) or other technical clothing wash like Nixwax Tech Wash. You can find them in most sporting goods shops.
Waders are usually made from three ply Gortex type material (wicking mesh layer is laminated to the gore membrane) so wash in DWR can be used if you so wish. If it's two ply, like in many jackets (has separate wicking mesh liner) you must use the spray on DWR if you want to maintain the same moisture wicking properties.
Hope that helps. As for me...I rarely bother with replacing DWR on waders. ....and YES USE A BLOW DRYER with Waders. The glues used to hold the neoprene booties together don't hold up well in a dryer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mato Kuwapi
I'm confused by the surfactant reference. All soaps and detergents are surfactants, even the mildest Ivory soap. I've used Ivory Snow unscented powder detergent with good results. I think what you don't want is any soap or detergent that leaves a residual on the fabric such a those with scenting agents or fabric softeners.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfactant
"When used for cleaning, soap serves as a surfactant in conjunction with water."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soap
Here are some manufacturer's recommendations:
http://www.orvis.com/intro.aspx?subject=744
http://www.patagonia.com/us/patagonia.go?assetid=2797
http://www.simmsfishing.com/site/about_repairs.html
Actually you're correct...but not all detergents and surfactants are created equal or do the same job. I should have qualified my statement with the TYPE of surfactants used in detergents that are designed with more stain removing properties. Tide is just one example. (Just think anti stain commercials) These strip dirt, stains and other things like DWR out of the fabric...but they also contain surfactants that prevent dirt, stains and things like DWR from re-embedding into the fabric between washes. Great for keeping cloths cleaner and washing up better. But for outdoor technical clothing (Gore-Tex, poly fleeces, technical underwear)...it's not the best choice. Milder detergents / soaps like Ivory, Sport Wash, Woolite, etc... are less likely to destroy the DWR and will allow for later applications to adhere better to the fabric.
Maybe my info is old. I worked for an outdoor outfitter selling technical clothing and gear for over ten years. I used this type of clothing almost daily for over thirty years. Companies like Gore and others would come in regularly and give seminars on the care and feeding of their products. That's the info I got at the time. Powder or liquid? From my experience, powders in cold water don't always break down and tends to leave residue. My personal preference has always been products like Sport Wash or Nikwax Tech Wash, which were designed specifically for technical outdoor clothing. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. LOL
More than anyone needs to know about surfactants
http://www.nanoparticles.org/pdf/Salager-E300A.pdf
http://www.scienceinthebox.com/en_UK...ctants_en.html
http://www.detergentsandsoaps.com/so...chemistry.html
...need I go on? LOL
I'll second Deb's recommendation on Sport Wash. Been using that stuff for years, and it really works well. It also is a great choice of laundry detergents for people that have allergies to laundry soap, and one bottle lasts for many washings. It also cleans much better than Ivory or Woolite, which I find amazing - it looks like water! Fortunately for me, the only thing I'm allergic to is work.:D