More varnish questions

I guess I'm just thick but I'm still banging my head against a wall trying to figure out how best to apply varnish to thread wraps on a bamboo refinish project. Here's what I'm using:

Man-O-War spar varnish
I'm using Naptha to thin it - about 25%
I've got test wraps both nylon and 3/0 silk on scrap bamboo
I'm brushing it onto the wraps using a small sable brush

I've seen many posts here where you guys (and gals) are using all different "tools" to apply varnish to wraps. From brushes, to chopsticks to knitting needles but the ACTUAL TECHNIQUE to apply it is still confusing me. Do you brush or at least spread the varnish onto the wraps or do you let it "drop" onto the wraps and flow around on its own? Are the first couple coats brushed on to get the varnish worked into the threads and then the final coats dripped on?

Should I be thinning the varnish? I've got a project where I've stripped the old varnish off and have to refinish the entire rod. I don't have the headroom to build a dip tube and since I have the Man-O-War I'm planning on using the "turkey baster" technique to apply the varnish. With this technique I've read that I should thin the varnish 25-30% (more? less?) to make it like water so it flows smoothly. Should I be thinning the varnish for the thread wraps too or should I be applying it full strength?

When should I apply the next coat? Can this be done while tacky or should I wait until the previous coat is fully dry?

Finally, how many coats should I expect to apply to get a nice glossy finish?

Thanks everyone. I know I'm making this out to be harder than it actually is.

OK, here is how I do it.

First two coats, Man-O-War spar varnish thinned about 25% with artists grade turpentine. The rest of the coats, straight MOW.

I apply the varnish by using a tapestry needle. this is a standard sewing needle with a rounded point.

Coat 1: starting at the flat with the guide foot dip the needle in the varnish and let it run back into the container until you have just a drop hanging from the tip. Now, flow it onto the wrap beginning at the outside end of the foot and working back towards the open end. This allows the varnish to soak in and push the air out the open end. On the rest of the flats I flow the varnish on beginning in the middle and pushing or guiding the flow towards the outside edge of the wrap until it just touches the edge. The first coats will go on thin and saturate the thread.

Coat 2: applied about 2 hours after the first coat. No need to wait any longer than that. Same procedure as coat 1.

Coat 3: straight MOW. again applied with the needle but only after initial coats dry 24 hours. I now make sure the varnish flows over the edge slightly onto the bamboo to seal the edge of the wrap. Any excess on the bamboo is removed immediately by sliding a piece of tying floss or cotton thread across the bamboo and up against the edge of the wrap. The thread will soak up the excess neatly.

Coat 4: after 24 hours, apply same as coat 3.

At this point you have to inspect the wrap and make sure all the thread is buried. If not, another coat is required, again wait 24 hours. If it looks good, wait at least 48 hours and then flat sand the wraps with 600 grit wet or dry glued to a flat piece of wood like a tongue depressor or a pop-sickle stick. Don't sand so deep you get into the thread. The areas around the foot bump can be touched up with 0000 steel wool.

Final coat: Clean up all the sanding dust and apply one more coat like coat 4.

Each of us develops our own methods and nothing is either wrong or right. This method works for me so I pass it along. As for the turkey baster method, I have never tried it so can't help you much with that.

Good luck with your project.

skandolf,
Check out this website;
http://www.fiberglassflyrodders.yuku.com/directory
There are some folks there that finish lots of rods and they really know what they're doing. I slobber almost every time I look at them.

Shaky's method is well written.

I've not tried the turkey baster method either, however I have brushed with thinned spar and a foam brush (creates less air bubbles) and the problem is dealing with the varnish around the start and ends of wraps and guides... this is where the varnish hangs up just a bit and then turns into a run when it lets go. Dipping allows you to clean these areas up as the rod is pulled from the varnish.

I use a small sable brush with 50% thinned spar. Build it up to where you want it. I then use the turkey baster type method to coat the complete rod-I've cut the spar with artists grade turp, naptha, and mineral spirits 50/50, put it in a small bottle (plastic ketchup or mustard bottles from the store works too)
Wipe the rod down with a tack rag and line a paint tray with foil. I do this in the shower stall, with a bar over head to hang the rod pieces from. I wrap the ferrules with teflon pipe tape and drizzle the spar slowly down the rod, turning it as I go. Do each section like this and hang it to dry. The excess varnish runs into the paint pan and I reuse it. I usually wet down the shower to take out any dust. Wash your hands and arms good and don't wear anything fuzzy on your arms. A couple coats and then decide if you want another coat after that. Let it dry 24+ hours between coats. I've done it to several fiberglass rods I've built and they come out nice. If you pick up a piece of dust, after it's dry, wet sand it out and wipe it down with the tack rag and give it another coat. Don't worry about the spar getting on the guides. I wipe the tip top off with thinner when I'm done.
Use spar with UV protectant in it.
Rockthief and Lotech have seen pictures of my rods.

Thanks for the help everyone - Shaky, that's EXACTLY what I was looking for; a starting point to develop a technique.

Mojo - thanks for the info on the baster technique. I've since changed my mind how I was going to finish the rod. I want to apply a few coats to the bare bamboo BEFORE I apply any wraps so I'll probably do the baster technique just to the rod, then do the wraps, apply a couple coats of thinned varnish to seal the threads then do the baster again a few times on the ENTIRE rod with the guides applied.

At least that's the plan.

Thanks again.