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Epoxy?
I have bought some Epoxy from my local hardware store, and I was thinking of using this stuff on the reel seat and handle of my rod. The epoxy is waterproof, rated at 2500PSI for strength, and has a temp range of -60 to 200 deg. There is a working time of 30 min and a handling time of 2hr, and dries clear. Is there any difference between epoxy sold by vendors who sell to rod builders, and the hardware store version?
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Rockeey;
You probably got more for less money!! But, depending on the shelf life was it a deal? Reel seats and handles use very little epoxy.
It'll work, it's just every time I do one I throw half of the mix away. I've done 4 rods and have not used more that 1/8th of the Epoxy supplied with my first kit! 2 oz each of Flex Coat Resin & Hardner!
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There are some subtle differences in Epoxies. The characteristics you described in your post would indicate that what you have will work fine , and you will never have a problem with it. Where most epoxies fail is when they are used in either too thin an application or too thick of an application when bonding is the desired result. Surface preparation is always a factor too. too slick of a surface and there is no "tooth" for the plastic to adhere too. What you have will be fine.
I like the U-40 products very well, the epoxy paste will take quite a bit longer to set up but once it's set, its there for a long long time. The real secret to any epoxy and using it is the proper mix. too much resin and it stays tacky, too much hardner and it will still set but doesnt have the same strength.
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I glued up the reel seat this morning, and now I have more questions (go figure). I used some masking tape and made two shims that hold the reel seat in place on the blank. I filled the space in between the two shims with epoxy, I figured it took about 5ml or just under an ounce to do so. The Epoxy I am using comes in a 25ml container or about 3.3 oz. Jack, you say that you are still using the same 2oz epoxy and you have made 4 rods, so what am I doing different here. The directions I have said to use the tape and fill the space with epoxy, however I don?t think that my method will even build two rods. Why do you need so little epoxy?
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The only thing that I would add would be to avoid the use of 5 minute epoxy for everything except perhaps your tiptops. The 2 ton 30 minute is fine as is any of the rodbuilding specific adhesives. The 5 minute stuff tends to be brittle and will break out easier with some heat. That is why I usually use it on tiptops instead of the heavy duty stuff.
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Is the Epoxy I use on the reel seat the same as the Epoxy that is used on the wraps. I was going to get some of that cork sealer, is there anything else that you all think I need to finish up this rod?
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The epoxy you used on the reel seat will be too aggressive for the wraps. You want a slower drying liquid for the wraps so it can flow and give you an even finish. Look at U-40's web site and you can see the different products available. I personally like the lo build products for graphites and the urethanes for bamboo, it I am not using varnish on the boo to get a translucent finish to the wraps. You could call Bob at H&H and he will make recommendations to you about your needs and will get it to you pretty quickly too.
[This message has been edited by dleo6446 (edited 10 December 2005).]
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Oh yeah...cork sealer. I have tired many differnt types of cork sealers and the best I have found to date is a product sold by Birkenstock (yep, the shoe makers). It goes on easily and last really well while protecting the cork. The only drawback to many of the cork sealers is that it makes them slighly darker which I personally don't mind, but others like the lighter colors on cork. The Birkenstocks Cork Sealer is very inexpensive too, I bought two jars of it at the Outlet Mall here in Nashville for $1.49 per jar. Not too shabby when it is sold to protect shoes that seel for an average of $150 per pair......