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Questions for my build.
Hey everyone,
The kit for my brothers rod is here! It came with the little instruction manual, and in reading about installing the cork grip, it says to ream out the cork with a rat tail file, wrap masking tape around the blank and then install the cork over the masking tape.
Question: Do I HAVE to do it that way? I slid the grip down the blank just to see how it fits, and it seem to fit nice and snug. There really isn't any play between the cork and the blank. Can I just lube up the blank with the epoxy and slide the grip down the blank until it's where I need it to be? It seems like it would be a much better fit to just do that than ream, tape, and fit.
P.S. Please check this post on a regular basis for more questions, lol.
Thanks,
TT.
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Yes! You can just do it that way if the fit is snug ... and on a 2# rod, I'd imagine that'd be all you need. Save your tape for the fitting of the reel seat.
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Ok, next question:
When finding the spine, do I make the mark at the crest of the hard spot on the blank when I roll it, or after it's bounced into the softer spot. The hard spot definately feels like it's stiffer, so I'm assuming that's the spine, and I'll lay the guides down opposite the spine.
TT.
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Yes. There are as many ways to find the spine as there are rod builders. I do it this way...
Place one end of the section on a hard surface. While holding the other end up so the section forms a 45* angle or so, put a bit of a bend in the blank and 'roll' it with the other hand. It will kind of jump to a particular spot. Mark what is the top side of the blank at this point. The stiff side is actually on the bottom or outside of the curve. Mark the inside of the curve. That is the side you put your guides on for rods up to about 6w. Some folks like to put the guides on the stiff side above 6w. I don't know that it makes much difference.
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Depending on the weight and length, I'm more inclined to "mark" the spine like JC taught. Put the rod together ... make it as straight as possible ... call it good!
Another way, combine Kevins way with putting the larger end on the top of your shoe, and push, flat handed, straight down on the tip top of the blank. Use the same curve designation as Kevin suggests.
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Hugo;
Is this a 2 pc, 3 pc or 4 pc rod? My first build was a 9' 2 pc. 3 wt. and my work area was too small!! If I wasn't knocking things off of shelves I had it stuck in the lamp!! And, speaking of "Lamps" you can never have enough light when building a rod!!
P.S. There is no known cure for this adiction!!
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Jack,
It's a 2 piece 2wt, 6'6''. It's the dark blue batson blank. I'm at my office as I write this laying out a few different wrap patterns to see what I think looks the best and will represent the Marine Corps dress blues the best. It is going to be one sharp looking rod the way these colors are coming together. I can't wait to see what the finished product looks like.
TT.
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I'd use the "JC Method". I have that rod ... I know (not name by name, but "know") the trouts there. You'll be fine!
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Ok, so here's another few questions:
How many layers of wrap do you use for the guides, or is it just personal preference? I'd like to be able to get away with just one for the feet. And then, do you start on the guide and wrap away from it, or do you start on the blank and wrap to the guide, or does it even matter?
I got the pattern layed out, looks great. It's a few wraps of gold thread on each outside end, dark royal blue for the main wrap around the feet, with a stripe of candy apple red that splits the blue wrap. With the gold guides, it really looks good.
I'm going to practice wrapping the guides a few times before I get the acrylic insert back from Steve at Midwest Custom Rods. As soon as I've got the handle assembled, the wrapping will begin, until then, practice, practice, practice, lol.
TT.
I'm going to use the layout of my 2wt guides as a template for this rod, so I should be set there.