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I practiced casting a full-sink line (8wt. Teeny T-200 - 24ft. of sink) for the first time. I only smacked myself upside the head 3 times - not bad and nobody was watching. But the roll cast then full cast method seems to work okay. Any suggestions? It is a strange feeling pulling that heavy line out of the water.
Thanks - Rick.
[This message has been edited by rick69 (edited 25 March 2005).]
Strip a lot of line back to you, roll cast to get the rest of the line on the waters surface then immediately go into a low back cast to an overhead cast. Make sure you have tension on the line throughout the cast.
False casting this stuff is asking for trouble!
[This message has been edited by Jackster (edited 25 March 2005).]
Teeny says to have 1 foot of the floating section past the rod tip for best results. This means I've 24ft. of sinking line out. In you opinion, is that too much to have out to begin the roll?
Teeny says to have 1 foot of the floating section past the rod tip for best results. This means I've 24ft. of sinking line out. In you opinion, is that too much to have out to begin the roll?
We use a lot of shooting heads for some of our piscatorial targets....integrated heads (as your Teeny line) and regular old SH's w/ amnesia.
I think the 1' clearance is referring to the position of the line in the rod when the DELIVERING cast is done.
We often bring the head clear into our fingers, which greatly enhances the effect of the "roll out" of the water stroke.....especially as higher density heads are used, such as LC.
After the roll cast, the line can be extended to 1' past the tip on the back cast and shot on the foward cast.
We cringe when we hear people advocating to "water haul".
We are so accustomed (may NOT be a good thing) to heads, that we find it useful to put a small nail knot of mono at the transition of sink to float line, so we have an "audible referrence" while casting. We do this with our full lines for night fishing too.
......lee s.
I usually retrieve the line until the transition point is at my stripping hand. I then roll cast, and either water haul (cringe away), or shoot line during the back cast to get that 1' of "overhang". The main thing to keep in mind when using these lines is to slow down your stroke. You really have to let the rod load and don't try to over power the cast.
Sorry DT,
I guess our disdain of waterhauling comes from being taught when we started (by Irwin Thompson) to KEEP our line in the air till we wanted it to land. We then went and pestered the steelhead in the coastal creeks. We just could NOT understand those that would target this sea-run rainbow, the largest of the rainbows, the skittiest of the rainbows, the least comfortable of it's surroundings of the rainbows, and slurp a line over it's head. The same person would do NO such thing targeting a pan-sized rainbow in another creek.
Yes, there are times when it is not detrimental to slurp line...very windy conditions? It may even be benificial to do so sometimes, as in the quest for dorado and such. But we were taught to keep it in the air till we WANTED it to slurp.....not as a casting crutch.
Cringing in the corner.... http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/smile.gif
.....lee s.
Remember to "haul" the line with your stripping hand into the backstroke and shoot a few feet of through the guides and then giver her another good haul as you move into the forward stroke... line speed, line speed, line speed!
Nate
Harrisnmo, I'd pass on the haul into the backcast - no need for it as the extra heavy head will load the rod just fine and you don't need much linespeed to backcast the 20-30' of head. In fact, you're better off to make the backcast as slow and easy as possible. You don't need the speed, and the less velocity the line has when you reverse its direction the smoother your cast will be. The final cast is where you want to hit the haul.
Kent