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Flurled leader machine (auto)
Several years ago Skip Shorb and Jim Hatfield, each made a motor driven Flurled leader machine. A drill motor does not give a perfect, exact same twist, tight twist as does the motor driven machine. (my personal opinion only)
Skip had his at the Sow bug and demonstrated. Later he brought it out to Tony's house and several of us used his machine, under the guiding hands of Skip, the Master!
Kenny & I are fishing with intermediate lines that have a sink rate of 1 1/2 ips. None of the furled leaders we have tried sink level with the line. Knowing Fluorocarbon is heavier than water should sink with our lines. (I have always been pretty much a dry fly fisherman but Kenny is teaching me to Nymph) We both fish with furled so wanted to continue to use them. A friend had already tried some of fluorocarbon and sent me a couple. They were nice but the twist was not what I really wanted. They were not twisted from the finest diameter, nor was the twist tight enough.
I searched and at this time find 2 lb test, the smallest and finest on the market. It is pricey,
But as we do not intend to sell them, our use only, dipped into the pocket and bought a few spools.
There comes a question, how tight do you twist a leader as you initially twist. There are a lot of opinions, articles written by far more intelligent men than I. It makes no difference of the RPMs of your twisting devise. I asked the above question of Jim Hatfield. He answered, "Until just before it breaks" Interesting but true. Now how in the heck can I do it?
On each different thread we use, we first set up the machine with the pegs (mine are PVC and can be plugged into any number of different formulas on the board, sure work nicer than a dowel as they are slick) Stop watch in hand, turn on the machine and hit the go button on the SW. When the material breaks, hit the stop button. We keep exact records of what was done, material, times, before twist length, finished length. Now we just subtract 10 seconds for the time of twist for this taper/material.
It is surprising how perfect they all come out. I am pleased with the results we are getting.
This machine is not my idea. The idea came from Skip & Jim. I only modified the components and gear set up. It is not rocket science. I made my own shafts from 5/16 drill stock. (the 900 RPM motor had a 5/16 shaft) Used ball bearing races to support all shaft ends. Two sets of gears, pinned to the shafts. I have no fancy metal working machines, only cabinet shop stuff. I feel anyone that would want to build one of these, could.
I have always used the Shorb loop, no rings. Right after Skip came up with the idea and Dr. Bruce Whittle sat and drew out the original on a napkin, I was given a copy and personal instruction on how to put the loop in both ends. I still have a photo of the original drawing.
I am willing to give any and all info to anyone interested in parts, costs etc.
Will try and post a couple photos. am not sure I can but.
Do not PM me, send e-mail denny@conranch.com
Denny
add on:furled leader machine
Both legs of my leaders are twisted at the same time. A spring loaded devise is hooked to the end where the turn around peg was. After twisting according to the stop watch, both legs are moved to the center shaft, which rotates opposite. I never have to remove my leader until completed. No standing the board up etc.
My motor is an inexpensive one, $9.00, turns 900 RPM. With my gears, I am not sure of the
shaft RPM. Do not care. My motor has a gear reduction on it. Already quite strong and easily mounted.
The alignment of the three shafts is very critical. Positioning the bernings exact makes the unit run friction free.
You can not over or under twist the counter twist. It will by itself twist/untwist if you are not perfect. I can actually see the leader "relax" when counter twisted correctly.
My machine is much like a hair braider, just more user friendly.
My machine is more sophisticated and faster, easier to use. Far different than the first board I made and used 7 years ago. I am not new to making furled leader making. Am still learning though.
Denny
Old Fashioned but Effective
Denny -
Your system is quite similar to the one I use - except mine is hand powered. I have a gearbox on the butt end housing a driving gear with a 3:1 ratio to the two gears that twist and then furl the thread. I also have a "manual" tensioner, which is shock cord which controls tension on a moving post at the tip end.
The working ( butt ) end.
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...6_edited-1.jpg
Hooks to hold the butt ends of material.
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...5_edited-1.jpg
The board with posts at 40% butt section, 30% mid section and 30% tip section spacing.
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...3_edited-1.jpg
The traveling post and shock cord at tip end.
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...004_edited.jpg
The debarbed fish hook on the traveling post makes it easy to configure the material and is an ideal way to incorporate a tip ring into the leader before it is twisted.
A young fellow here in Idaho Falls is building a power version of my set up. It will likely closely resemble yours. He is going to add a digital counter and work off formulas developed by our local furled leader guru Karl Amonson.
John