Dying capes

When I dye a cape the skin dries hard and inflexible. On a commercially dyed cape the skin is still reasonably flexible.
What step am I leaving out?

Ray, I don't know beans about dyeing anything, but the thought comes to mine you are probably using a slight different chemical from what commercial processors are using. I would expect a commercial producer to have equipment to produce a volume of product that would do the job quickly.

I've dyed with Rit and had that happen; didn't seem to effect the feathers so I didn't worry about it. I'm sure the dyeing process the pros use is a bit more advanced than a pot on a hot plate, hence the supple skin.

Regards,
Scott

You may be getting the dye bath too hot, or leaving the necks in the dye bath longer than needed. I'd try it at a lower temperature first to see how it comes out. You can save the dye bath if you want to put the necks in for a second time.

When you prepare the neck before dying, and washing any dirt and grease from the feathers, you're also washing out some of the oil from the skin. I've never tried it, but you might also try rubbing a small amount of glycerine (or something similar) on the back side of the neck after dying and drying it - of course you'd want to be careful to not get this on the feathers.

Thanks for the replies. To ScottP I would note that I don't see any "feather problem". It's just that the skin cracks when I flex it to check feather size.

Have not tried it, but some rub the skin with glycerine specifically to avoid this problem. Try searching previous posts on dying/dyeing and you should fine some comments.

If I remember correctly it likely has to do with temperature.
Same thing happens to me with fur skins....especially a problem if one wants to make zonker strips.

I often dye with Rit at room temperature. Instead of a five minute dye bath you might have to leave the feathers in the dye for 2 or 3 days. But it will get there color-wise. And the skins don't get hard and brittle.