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kbproctor

So I think I'm going to build a rod.... Part 2

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This was really a kit that could have had more attention paid to detail. The winding check was WAY too big size wise. But that isn't all. The seller "pre-fit" the grip to the blank. That part would have been OK if the tip end of the grip hadn't been wallowed out.

My solution was to make a winding check from a stainless steel washer.

I took a 1/4" stainless washer and put it in my doming block. I then beat the heck out of it with the doming punch. This stretched the center hole some, but it still needed to be reamed out. Once finished with the reaming, I used a jeweler's file to clean up any rough edges and polished it. It covers the buggered end of the cork nicely.

I got the reel seat and grip epoxied on without further problem. While that was setting up, I turned my attention to the drying stand/motor.

Having seen pictures of the rod chucks for these things in the catalogs and online, and being cheap, I decided to build my own chuck.



I used a 1.5" PVC cap, 2" x 1/8" NPT pipe nipple, and 3 #10-32 x 1.5" socket head cap screws.

I located the center of the cap and drilled and tapped for the 1/8" pipe nipple. I then scribed a line about 3/8" from the open end of the cap and measured the circumference with a cloth tape. Divide by 3 and mark. Drill and tap for the #10-32 screws.

I cut the threads off one end of the nipple and drilled a hole all the way through about 1/4" from the end the same size as the hole in the shaft of the 36 RPM motor from Pacific Bay. Jann's has these for just under $11.00. I also ran a drill bit through the nipple to clean things up for a better fit to the motor shaft.

Thread everything together. I also put protective tips on the screws so they would not mar a blank or reel seat. Slide the nipple over the motor shaft and secure with a cotter pin. Total cost of my drying rig including motor, stand and chuck was about $15.

The rod is wrapped and has the color preservative drying on the wraps as I write this. The next installment should be for a finished rod!

Updated 11-11-2009 at 10:21 PM by kbproctor

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Rod Building

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